Stubborn Dust Seal

[Deplorable, thank you!]

I was trying to let you solve one problem at a time...lol



How many miles on the ST?

With good maintenance (grease them every 20,000 or so) I ran the original bearings  for 256,000 on one of my bikes and have had others go past 100,000.

Did you buy ceramic bearings--those would indeed make your ST fly... (on my list when the time comes)

[pkpk]

40k miles.  I ordinarily change them at 50k.  The ST is not kind to bearings because of the heavy load.  I guess I could try to service the bearing and see if I could push it but they are not that expensive through CBR Bearings. 

Yeah, make my ST fly, that's all I need for my driving history. 

[Deplorable, thank you!]

Well when you get your new ones-remove the seal off one side and pack them before you ever install them. They come with precious little grease as new-repacking alone will double your life of them.

--perhaps I should have sold you on the ..........................You'll get better fuel economy  and they will last longer because of the lower rolling resistance of the ceramic bearing....since you don't want to FLY


FLYing will still be a byproduct  :-)

[Deplorable, thank you!]

Hey since we are shooting the shit--I went out riding today 54 miles...lol

Up to Roseville and back on a 1976 Goldwing with no windshield. It was frickin cold

[pkpk]

Hmm, well I do have hi-temp bearing grease.  Now I'm tempted.

[pkpk]

So what is the correct tool to pull the dust seal out of a bearing that won't deform or nick it?

[Deplorable, thank you!]

Well I have about 20 different "picks" some of which are actually right off the dentists table---but here is a picture of one of the most used styles I like.

The wheel bearing pictured isn't all that high miles and it already had lots of rust build up in the grease. (Now of course if the bearings should come shielded with a metal shield-then the approach is entirely different-as in, don't bother just replace them)

The second picture (just since you are doing your own maintenance---pull that clutch lever off and pull the brass bushing out-you should be lubing that atleast once a year to keep it from looking like this one --only 14,000 miles on the one pictured-yet it was siezed, and this is even off an ST1300)

[Deplorable, thank you!]

Then of course, keep the mice at bay over the winter---another ST1300. This one had a mouse chew through the injection wires and build a nest under the airbox and in the air filter. Needless to say it didn't run very well when it arrived.

[vince]

Well believe it or not they do make two tools for this. But the best one is a hammer and a small sharp chisel. Just top the chisel through the side of the seal and not cut the wheel or the fork tub or what ever seal or bearing you are working on. Then force it inward and pry it out. Honda does make a tool and it looks like a long chisel and you push it out from the other side of the wheel. Doesn't work for fork seals but you can try to pry it out just like you would with a chisel or screw driver. The other tool is for removing the bearing and you would take out the bearing and the seal together. It is a flat bar with a threaded hole in the middle for a bolt. You go through the bearing or seal turn it flat so it get behind the bearing then you put the bolt in and put it out by turning the bolt. You put washer on the bolt bigger than the surface that you are trying to pull it out from. Or you use the chisel or a long bolt and tap it out from the other side. Hammer and chisel works the best. Just hit it about medium hard that should do it.

[vince]

I like those picks they work good also but I don't own any of those. Maybe I'll buy one or two of those. To go with all those chisels I have.

[Deplorable, thank you!]

The hammer and chisel---I think you misunderstood. Paul is looking to service his wheel bearings and keep them intact-not detroy and remove them. But yes the tools made for bearing removal and installation work fairly well.

I just go the long thin punch and hammer from the opposite side of the wheel for removal (fast and easy) but pressing the new ones in is best for sure..

[pkpk]

I do have the brass drifts for removing bearings and the pick that Lloyd shows for removing the seal.

Good thing I understood that Vince misunderstood, LOL. 

I do service the clutch bushing, maybe not every year though.  Mice?  I have no mice since we have more cats than dogs in our neighborhood. 

[vince]

I do know what you were trying to do. So bike have some sort of hard plastic on the wheel that is a dust cover and then the next thing is a bearing seal and then a sealed bearing. Some bike don't have that hard plastic seal. But there is a bear tool used to remove the bearing and you can pull the bearing and the seal at the same time or if it fits pull the seal.
Here are the Honda part numbers if you can pull it up to see what I am talking about.
07GGD-0010100 Bearing remover shaft
07NMF-MT70110 Bearing remover
07AMF-MELA200 Remover attachment
Like I said I usually use a chisel for the really hard ones but if you can pull it out with a pick great but for me they are allways in pretty hard and in there pretty deep. I have pull them out just prying it out with a screwdriver. If it is in there pretty deep I hit it with a punch on the top of the seal and it crushes in on itself and shrinks and the comes out pretty easy.