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Author Topic: Trailer help  (Read 3318 times)

Offline allonm

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Trailer help
« on: July 27, 2010, 02:06:03 PM »
Recently bought  a Kendon trailers that calls for 21 “ from the ground to the top of the ball in order to make the trailer level.
I have a class 1 hitch on my sedan with 1.25” x1.25 “ receiver. My current setup takes me to 16” above ground level. The only thing I could find was a ball mount that would get me to  a little below 19”.

Any suggestions? (serious ones, not buy an SUV)
Doing some on-line research revealed this is an issue with Kendon trailer owners + sedan.  Most have gone to a welder or a machine shop to custom make them one.
Any recommendations for this solution?

Thanks,
Allon

Offline Stinger

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Offline beedawg

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Re: Trailer help
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2010, 03:12:23 PM »
I know this isn't really helpful, but I'm wondering how important it is for the trailer to be level.  I can imagine it might be ideal to have the trailer level, but I mean really, how much difference can it really make if the hitch is a couple inches below level?

I'm not saying it won't make any difference.  I'm just asking what difference it might make, and how.  I pull a couple different trailers with a couple different vehicles, and it doesn't seem to make much difference whether I pull them level or not, other than which direction the contents migrates on bumpy rides.

Thanks.

Brent

Offline Aprilian

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Re: Trailer help
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2010, 03:16:53 PM »
Most people miss the fact that you can use the hitch insert both directions, to lift or lower the ball from the receiver height.   With all the different options at Northern Hardware, you should be able to figure out the parts to get to the ideal height.

My kendon tows quietly when level, my impression is that there is less weight on the tounge when it is tipped back, which can cause the ball to rattle in the ball receiver.

Go to Northern and try all the options.
Ian

"Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline." Nick Ienatsch, The Pace http://tinyurl.com/3bxn82

Offline Cam

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Re: Trailer help
« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2010, 04:09:28 PM »
Looks like there should be something here to do what you need:
http://www.hitchdepotusa.com/index.cfm/event/prodetail/categoryid/47/id/280/


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Offline allonm

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Re: Trailer help
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2010, 04:39:52 PM »
Guys,
Keep in mind that I have a class 1 hitch with only 200 lb TW.  It is only 1.25².
I read that the 1.25 to 2” convertor is used for bicycle mounts and such, but not for towing a trailer with to sport/sport touring motorcycles. It will also increase the length of the hitch which potentially increase TW. (tongue weight. ) I found a mount with a 5” rise, but that only brings me up to 18. 5 inches from the ground. I would be OK with 20” although not quite leveled.
My main concern is not so much ride quality, it’s actually hitting the bottom of the trailer. 

Ian, do you have a sedan or an SUV?
Allon

Offline Aprilian

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Re: Trailer help
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2010, 05:16:24 PM »
I has Camry - goes very fast (sometimes even when I don't want it to :o  ).
My Kendon is old school; the angle on the tounge is different in gen 2, which is what you sound like you have.   

Just buy a 2" ball with long threaded rod and shim it up the 1+" you need.  As long as you have threads left for the nut and the nut is tight, you're fine.
Ian

"Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you're pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a left-hand kink, stay to the right of the centerline." Nick Ienatsch, The Pace http://tinyurl.com/3bxn82