Winter is a great time for moto projects. Currently I am working on a Suzuki GS850 sidecar project. The Zuki isn't really a good match to the car, so I'm going to clean the 850 up and move it down the road in the spring. I am thinking I want to find a Bonneville or Guzzi for the sidecar.
I am also playing with a beat up old chonda mini chopper. My neighbors and I ride around our 'hood and basically just have a blast, until something breaks, then we fix it and repeat.
So, how are you passing the winter time? Whatcha wrenching on?
New tube went on fine. Smaller bites and doing the "valve at 90 degrees" thing are the differences from my earlier attempt as well as the new dunlop tube seemed to be pre-powdered.
I was pretty nervous to do that last bit of levering though.
KTM LC4e - I can direct swap a KTM Sm wheel set on.
But- that is expensive and all I really want is more street oriented tires on my ride. I just have to get better at these tubes. I have also viewed many videos and a tip I will try next is to finish the tire at 90 degrees to the valve stem. I have been doing 180 degrees. I'll also try baby powder. Haven't been using that, but until I get the technique, I'll try any tricks I can to make it work.
I hate tube wheels. I seem to manage to pinch the tube with the last bite of the tire spoon often. It doesn't happen all of the time, but it happens enough, and when it does I get pissed off. Tubeless tires are a breeze. I should just get a set of Supermoto wheels for my KTM and be done with tubes. Anyone else have the same issue?
"Ran when parked" "runs great, just needs new battery, tires and carbs cleaned" But my all time favorite is the pictures of the bike stuffed in the corner of a dark shed. Really shows what great care the bike has had :-)
This might be old news as this thread is a bit old, but I would look at the CB500X and get more dual sport tires for it than stock. It looks to be the best bike for this type of riding. Not really a dirtbike, but much more highway friendly than a KLR.
I have ridden from Anchorage to Prudhoe Bay (and more importantly, back ;-) on a KLR650. It was a good bike for that. A DR650 would have also been good. I can tell you that the "dirt road" is either going to be gravel or super slick snotty mud in Alaska.
On another trip I went from Anchorage to Seatlle on an F800GS. Coming into BC Canada, they use a lot of gravel where in Alaska it would be a mix of mud and rocks, so the roads are better. Sometimes the gravel will be deep and loose. That kept my speeds down on a loaded F800GS, but wasn't impossible. By speeds down I mean 35 to 45mph. The rest of Canada was 90-100mph as long as I was far away from towns/cities. Once near towns, observe the speed limit.
Top of the World Highway was under scontruction on the US side and it was dodgy as hell for me on the loaded up F800GS. They basically plow mud and rocks and sticks up and level it out to get rid of the ruts. Sounds like a great idea but it was raining and the mud was a foot thick and slick as snot. Trucks were getting stuck trying to go uphill. I was able to tractor along at low speed throught he construction zones but the rear would start to spin and I thought "shit, if I drop this or can't keep momentum going uphill I am stuck here until the rains tops and this dries out. Could be aweek!"
Coming from the Rockies to MN you are going to want a highway capable bike and the DR/KLR will get buzzy and boring. So, the CB500X would be my choice for your outlined goals.
In my opinion and situation, it is weather and work related. Squeezing in a "fun" ride for me around Overtime and Family Stuff means no time for pre rides, printed route sheets or waiting for late people who show up with a tank on fumes. I suspect many of us are working hard to keep ourselves employed.
That said, the regular ride leaders deserve a break. If you are on a ride and know a section of the roads, let the leader know ahead of time that you can lead that section. It gives them a break from being on point.
I often switch leading and following on my rides with friends. It helps to keep the pace and it fights off boredom.
A benefit of leading is that you don't get shelled with rocks from the tire of the guy in front of you :-)
Post 76 "MOTORCYCLE IN REST AREA LOST CONTROL AND TIPPED OVER"
My guess would be fatigue. If that is the case, they should have stopped earlier and stretched their legs.
Sounds like a strange incident, and mine is just a guess. Could have been that someone or a kid or dog darted in front of the bike and spooked the rider.
I read these in the hopes that I can think of what I would do in that situation as a rider to avoid the crash. Of course, sometimes, stuff just happens.
Nice find. I talked to a guy that bought the 1199 when I was getting my Duc and he was supper excited about how well it just rolls through the turns. It sounds great too.
Sobering math indeed. However, the new crop of 250s (tu250x and my current fav the cbr250r) seem like a good deal. 60 to 70 mpg, $4000 price, pay cash and your insurance is only $150 a year for liability. Do your own oil changes, brake pads and valve adjustments. Chains and sprockets are cheap for little bikes. Low power means less stress.
On the other hand, you can get a cheap fuel sipper car like an Aveo 5 speed that gets 35mpg, but will run to 130,000 miles without real issues for $10,000 new.
Can the new 250s go 130,000 miles without a rebuild? No one knows yet, but my guess is no.
So even with the latest offerings with economy in mind, the car still is cheaper. Good thing bikes are fun.
I have no idea why, but i am fascinated by the new 250s.
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